The Sarai at Toria, a Sustainable Retreat Between Khajuraho and Panna
- Dr. K.
- Jan 6, 2025
- 7 min read
Updated: 4 days ago
This intimate eco-lodge in central India combines access to Khajuraho's UNESCO-listed temples, wildlife safaris in Panna Tiger Reserve, and a thoughtful commitment to conservation.
Most travelers know Khajuraho for its UNESCO-listed temples, famous for their intricate carvings and remarkable architecture. What many don't realize is that this region of central India offers far more than a quick sightseeing stop.
Between the temples of Khajuraho, the wilderness of Panna Tiger Reserve, and the peaceful banks of the Ken River, this corner of Madhya Pradesh rewards travelers willing to slow down. During a recent visit, we discovered that one of the best ways to experience it all was by staying at The Sarai at Toria, a small eco-lodge that combines sustainability, conservation, and thoughtful hospitality.
While the temples may bring visitors to the region, the lodge became the reason we lingered.
Why Khajuraho Is Worth Visiting
Built between the 9th and 12th centuries by the Chandela dynasty, the temples of Khajuraho are among India's most celebrated cultural treasures. Today, they form a UNESCO World Heritage Site and remain one of the country's most extraordinary examples of Nagara-style temple architecture.
Much of the attention often focuses on the famous erotic sculptures, but they represent only a small portion of the artwork. Walking through the complex, I found myself far more captivated by the endless carvings of musicians, dancers, animals, celestial beings, and scenes from everyday life. The craftsmanship is astonishing, especially considering many of these structures have stood for more than a thousand years.
The Western Group of Temples is the most visited and best preserved, and a knowledgeable guide can help bring the stories behind the carvings to life. Even if history isn't usually your focus when traveling, the artistry alone makes the site worth exploring.
For most visitors, half a day is sufficient to see the main temples, making Khajuraho an easy addition to a broader itinerary through central India.
A Different Kind of Stay
About 30 minutes from the temples, The Sarai at Toria feels worlds away from the typical luxury resort experience.
Situated near the Ken River, the lodge was co-founded by British wildlife photographer Joanna Van Gruisen and renowned tiger conservationist Dr. Raghu Chundawat. Their passion for conservation is woven throughout the property, creating a stay that feels deeply connected to the surrounding landscape. Rather than grand buildings and extensive facilities, the lodge focuses on simplicity, comfort, and a strong sense of place.
The property consists of just eight cottages, allowing for an intimate atmosphere. Built using locally sourced mud, the cottages feature thick walls that naturally regulate temperatures throughout the day. Traditional craftsmanship appears throughout the interiors, while large windows and outdoor spaces encourage guests to stay connected to the environment outside. From the moment we arrived, the setting felt peaceful. Butterflies drifted through the gardens, squirrels darted between trees, and birdsong seemed to fill every corner of the property.
Sustainability That Feels Genuine
Many hotels today talk about sustainability. At The Sarai at Toria, it is integrated into everyday operations in a way that feels authentic rather than promotional.
Solar lighting illuminates pathways after dark. Water is provided in reusable thermoses rather than disposable plastic bottles. Water bowls are placed around the property for wildlife, and many of the bathroom amenities are sourced from organizations supporting local communities. These details may seem small individually, but together they create a property that operates with clear intention.
What impressed me most was that sustainability never felt like a compromise. The experience remained comfortable and welcoming while maintaining a strong environmental ethos.
Dining Inspired by the Garden
Food plays an important role in the experience. Many ingredients come directly from the property's kitchen gardens, and meals reflect both regional influences and seasonal availability. Breakfasts might include fresh fruit, traditional poha, and continental options, while lunches and dinners feature vegetables harvested on-site alongside thoughtfully prepared Indian dishes.
One afternoon, I spent time talking with the gardener about the variety of produce grown throughout the grounds. Seeing where ingredients originated added another dimension to the meals that followed.
The food was not elaborate for the sake of being elaborate. Instead, it felt fresh, local, and connected to the region—much like the property itself.
A Gateway to Panna Tiger Reserve
One of the lodge's biggest advantages is its proximity to Panna Tiger Reserve, one of India's lesser-known but increasingly respected wildlife destinations.
The reserve is home to Bengal tigers, leopards, deer, antelope, monkeys, crocodiles, and hundreds of bird species. It is also considered one of India's great conservation success stories, having successfully rebuilt its tiger population after the species nearly disappeared from the area. The lodge arranged both morning and night safaris for our group.
Like many visitors, we hoped to see a tiger. But one of the lessons of wildlife travel is that nature doesn't work on demand. The real reward was the experience of being in the forest itself. Early mornings brought sightings of deer, sambars, monkeys, and countless birds as the landscape slowly came alive. The reserve's rivers, grasslands, cliffs, and forests created constantly changing scenery that made every drive feel different.
We eventually caught a brief glimpse of a tiger resting in the distance, but what stayed with me was not the sighting itself. It was the anticipation, the silence of the forest, and the reminder that these animals still roam freely across this landscape. One morning, the lodge packed breakfast for us to enjoy during the safari. Sharing a meal in the wilderness became one of the most memorable moments of the trip.
Experiences Beyond the Safari
The lodge also offers opportunities to experience the region at a slower pace. Some members of our group joined a birdwatching boat excursion on the Ken River, describing the experience as peaceful and restorative. The calm waters, morning light, and abundant birdlife offered a completely different perspective from the excitement of the safari. Others spent afternoons exploring the grounds, reading, photographing wildlife, or simply enjoying the slower rhythm that naturally develops when surrounded by nature.
One evening, guests gathered to watch a BBC documentary produced by Joanna Van Gruisen and Dr. Chundawat about tiger conservation. The discussion that followed offered rare insights into the challenges and successes of wildlife preservation in central India. Experiences like these helped transform the stay from a hotel visit into something much more immersive.
Who Should Stay Here?
The Sarai at Toria is particularly well suited for travelers who enjoy meaningful travel experiences over traditional luxury. It is an excellent choice for:
Travelers interested in wildlife and conservation
Visitors combining Khajuraho and Panna in one itinerary
Photographers and birdwatchers
Families with older children
Travelers seeking quieter, nature-focused experiences
Those looking for a large resort with extensive recreational facilities, nightlife, or a traditional spa-focused experience may find the property too understated. Its appeal lies in its intimacy, authenticity, and connection to the surrounding landscape.
Planning Your Visit
Khajuraho is located in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh and can be reached via the local airport, which offers flights from cities such as Delhi and Varanasi, though schedules may vary seasonally. Travelers can also arrive by train via Khajuraho Railway Station or combine rail and road travel from nearby hubs such as Jhansi and Satna.
The Sarai at Toria works particularly well as a base for exploring both Khajuraho and nearby Panna Tiger Reserve, allowing travelers to combine cultural sightseeing, wildlife experiences, and time in nature without changing hotels.
The most popular time to visit is between October and March, when cooler temperatures make temple visits, safaris, and outdoor activities especially enjoyable. Travelers interested in wildlife viewing may also consider April and May, when animals are often easier to spot around water sources, though temperatures can be significantly warmer. The Sarai at Toria is typically closed during the monsoon season from July through September, reopening when the rains subside and the surrounding landscape turns lush and green.
Why this stay stands out
Luxury hotels can be found almost anywhere. Properties that genuinely deepen a travel experience are much harder to discover.
What makes The Sarai at Toria memorable is its ability to connect travelers to the culture, wildlife, and landscapes of central India without feeling staged or overly curated. It serves as a gateway to two of the region's greatest attractions—the temples of Khajuraho and the forests of Panna—while offering an experience that stands on its own.
For travelers seeking a slower, more thoughtful side of India, The Sarai at Toria offers something increasingly rare: a chance to experience ancient temples, thriving wildlife, and meaningful conservation efforts from a place that feels genuinely connected to its surroundings.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is The Sarai at Toria inside Panna Tiger Reserve?
No. The lodge is located near Panna Tiger Reserve and serves as a convenient base for safari excursions.
How many days should I spend in Khajuraho and Panna?
Most travelers should plan for at least two to three nights to experience the temples, wildlife safaris, and surrounding countryside.
When is the best time to visit The Sarai at Toria?
October through March offers the most comfortable weather for exploring Khajuraho and enjoying safaris. Wildlife enthusiasts may also consider April and May, when animals are often easier to spot around water sources, although temperatures can be significantly warmer. The Sarai at Toria is typically closed during the monsoon season from July through September.
Can you visit Khajuraho and Panna on the same trip?
Yes. Many travelers combine the UNESCO-listed temples of Khajuraho with wildlife safaris in nearby Panna Tiger Reserve.
Travelers drawn to properties that offer a strong sense of place may also enjoy these experiences from around the world.
Explore More Unique Stays
If you enjoy properties that connect travelers to the culture, landscape, and traditions of a destination, you may also enjoy our stay at Atali Ganga in the Himalayan foothills near Rishikesh, our experience at Lodge at Wah in the tea-growing Kangra Valley, our feature on Mirante do Gavião, an Amazon rainforest lodge along Brazil's Rio Negro, a stay at Chapung Sebali amid the rice terraces of Ubud, Bali, and our experience at Sedona Mago's True Self retreat. Together, these properties showcase how thoughtful hospitality can create a deeper connection to the places we visit, whether through conservation, culture, wellness, or a strong sense of place.
